Vegan Climbing

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Postby revolushuneyz » Mon Apr 27, 2009 4:00 pm

Amazing Chris, where abouts are you heading? Rope or bouldering?

Headed up to Mac Pond for the first time this year. Totally epic. It was balmy 27 degrees celcius, sun shining and all. After blowing almost all my energy on a V2 because I wasn't pulling a hold the right way, I eventually figured it out and then it was embarassingly easy. Technique is fun.

Ended the day by making it to the last hold of a V5, Slobodan. The top-out is super scary, so I'm stoked to get back on it when I'm fresh. It's my favourite style, crimpy and technical.
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Postby remixrobot » Thu Apr 30, 2009 3:25 am

That sounds awesome Rev...I LOVE the crimpy stuff as well..so fun! What kind of stone do you have your way?

I am so bored of the climbing in my area! Most of the climbing that is interesting me lately is at least a couple hours drive...bummer! because of all that I have been in the gym a bunch lately....just bouldering a lot and also getting stronger on the routes...my endurance is still pretty lame but it is slowly getting better...I even flashed a 13b in the gym!

I have been climbing in 5.10 dragons instead of my regular anasazi velcro's and I remember now why they are my favorite shoe...if anyone is looking for an agressive shoe, make sure to try this one on.
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Postby remixrobot » Wed May 13, 2009 7:25 pm

wow. This is very very impressive stuff

http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/blog/607/

It almost beats my Oak aid climbing...
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Postby chriss » Thu May 14, 2009 6:03 pm

Hi all Euro trip is going well In the Swiss at the mo, went to italy for mello bloco, which was amazing, so many strong climbers- i wish was one of them!!
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Postby revolushuneyz » Tue May 19, 2009 8:57 pm

Tommy Caldwell is insane. Blowin' it up.


Remix...I've been reading your posts for a while, you're a beast. Super strong.

Around here (and by that I mean within an 8-hour drive) we have granite and shist. Mostly granite. The areas as: Weir, Baldy, Montagne d'Argent, Vald David, Mackenzie Pond, Rumney, Pawtuckawey, the Gunks, Smuggler's Notch, and a few others in Quebec that I'm not so familiar with.

Just got back from the Gunks. One word: moist. Humidity was insane, so I got the focus on exactly what I've said I'd do...high volume, low numbers. Worked V0-3s, focusing on top-outs. Nothing fancy or flashy.

Then I found my new project: it's a V4 (apparent sandbag, but I don't think so) called Andrew's problem. It looks nice. Way more burly than I usually like, but it's burly because of all the gymanstics.

Here's the problem (clearly not me on it)
http://www.yidio.com/andrew-boulder-pro ... 2037180361
I do the start differently, no campus, all heel hooks (I just don't like the aesthetic of most campusing...it's a personal thing).

Not sure when/if I'll get back, it's a 7-hour drive to New Paltz...but, the entire town is vegan (essentially), great cafes and shops. Tons of vegan awesomeness.

I've otherwise been staying close to home. We have a short window before the bugs get too bad, and it's nice to support the home team. I'd like to develop some lower-end bouldering in the area...but it's getting heinously buggy, so that may have to wait till the fall.

A note on my finger. So I got injured at the same time as about 4 other people. Two of those people have the exact same injury I had, pulled tendon (where it hurts in the forearm when you apply pressure). So I decided, a straight two weeks of no climbing and eat/sleep/drink well. And what happens, I'm back. Solidly. 100% healed. The others are still out. I'm pretty stoked on that.

Remix, you've got it good where you're at. I'd like to get down that way later this year or early next. No complaining aloud.
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Postby remixrobot » Wed May 20, 2009 9:29 pm

Hey Rev..Thanks for the kind words.

I climbed a little bit out that way a few years ago. Rumney is incredible...you should check out Catskills too...awesome.

I know that problem. It IS really cool and IS pretty burly. It also has a bunch of really neat variations. I used the campus beta but that is just because I am a meathead I guess. there is a John Gill Pinch problem as well (that might even be the name.) That is one of my favorite problems. When I was over there I wasn't climbing too hard yet...I would love to come back out and try some of the classics..I keep seeing pictures of that problem Karajo...its calling me...

I do have it good here...even the bad climbing is pretty good. I have just been too lazy (read frugal) to drive more than an hour or so to get to the good stuff. I am going up to Tahoe for a week in june to do a bunch of trad climbing and maybe a little sport...if you do come out this way feel free to drop a line! I am always looking for people to climb with or even to host fellow climbers...Im not on VF much anymore so feel free to email me
Last edited by remixrobot on Mon Oct 15, 2012 10:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby chriss » Fri Jun 19, 2009 2:22 pm

Well my time is up, gosh how 2months can fly by..The bouldering in Europe has been varied and pretty amazing.
From Switzerland to Spain we have hit the best venues and some very good problems. When I get home I'll try and stick some pics up. Anyway hope you are all climbing well.
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Postby chriss » Mon Sep 07, 2009 9:48 pm

Are there any VEGAN climbers still out there?
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Postby Dave Noisy » Tue Sep 08, 2009 7:28 pm

chriss wrote:Are there any VEGAN climbers still out there?

heh - i'm still around.

Will be getting back on the wall around November. =)
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Postby revolushuneyz » Tue Sep 08, 2009 7:58 pm

It`s climbing season, we're all outside. Just got back from Rumney after a three-week non-climbing holiday. I thought the Rumney grades (for bouldering) were super soft, until a few peeps said they were sandbagged because of the routes situation, which made me feel super awesome about sending a berzillion V3s. A friend and I really wanted to work volume so we sent easy problems for three days straight. We have no more business bouldering in Rumney.

This weekend, if it doesn't, may head back out to work a couple projects in the area.
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Postby Dave Noisy » Thu Sep 10, 2009 9:06 pm

Sweeeet.. I totally missed the outdoors season here. : \
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Postby violetti » Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:33 pm

If weather is okay on Sunday, I'll go to outdoor climbing. Practising with ATC.

Today indoor climbing.Went quite well. Have developed a bit again. Still practising not tight arms too much and taking bigger steps.

A friend of mine got the idea to gather all local acitivists/people active in organisations (environment and animal activist mostly) who are interested in climbing together. We have a group for info and stuff in Facebook. Over 20 members but only a couple of us are active in climbing.
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Postby chriss » Fri Oct 09, 2009 12:44 pm

Nice to see the vegans are still out crushing!
Luckly I have a year long season sandstone for the summer & grit for the winter!
I'm heading out to Fontainbleau end of the month so training hard now. Then I'm off to Australia, New Zeland Then USA end of the year so should be in The USA next November if anyone wants to show me around.
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Postby Dave Noisy » Fri Oct 09, 2009 6:42 pm

Hey hey - my replacement Jet7 shoes are in, picking them up today!

Going to get a new harness too, want something a bit lighter and more breathable, so going with this, the Petzl Hirundos:

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 5113814939

Helps it's the right color too. =)

Will be getting back on the wall in a month or so...looking forward to it!
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Postby chriss » Sat Oct 17, 2009 10:10 am

What happened to the last Jet 7's Dave?
Hope you had a good season on the bike & are feeling refreshed & ready for the climbing season. What are your hopes for this year then or are you aiming for fun,fun,fun?
How is your climbing going violetti any better with the belaying? How are you finding climbing outside?
Just smile x
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