by tyson » Sat Mar 28, 2009 10:47 pm
chriss,
to help with your dynamic movement and explosive power, i would suggest training speed climbing. literally.
go and find a toprope route in your gym that is between 5.6-5.10a. then try to climb it as fast as you can. lower off rest a few minutes and try this again. sooner or later you will find that your rhythm becomes much better and you will be going up the wall much faster. soon you will find that you are dynamically moving through moves that you would have normally done statically.
we use this drill not only to train speed climbing but also for our climbers who tend to have the same problems you are having. climbing static is great for many things but a good dynamic ability will save you energy and become a very efficient tool in your climbing bag. i shit you not, speed climbing helps your bouldering and rhythm. there are plenty of videos on youtube featuring speed climbing. check out what the koreans and chinese are doing for speed times, it is pretty amazing.
also, from my personal experience, creatine can be helpful, but only to a point. i felt that after a winter of not really training it was a real quick way to jump start and recruit what i already had in me from many years of climbing and training for climbing. for the record i do not condone this or say it is good or bad, i am just letting you know my experience.
i have done a 4 week cycle before, using this type of program. this was based off of my weight of around 155lbs.
Week 1:
Creatine: 5g post-workout, 2g before bed.
Glutamine: 7g pre-workout, 7g post-workout, 8g before bed.
Week 2:
Creatine: 11g post-workout, 3g before bed.
Glutamine: 7g pre-workout, 7g post-workout, 8g before bed.
Week 3:
Creatine: 16g post-workout, 5g before bed.
Glutamine: 7g pre-workout, 7g post-workout, 8g before bed.
Week 4:
Creatine: 5g post-workout, 2g before bed.
Glutamine: 7g pre-workout, 7g post-workout, 8g before bed.
i found that this month of training was very helpful. i felt more powerful and was able to train for about an hour or an hour and a half longer than normal. i had one of my best training days ever while in week 3 of this cycle. i was able to train ropes for 3.5 hours without feeling like anything could stop me. however, i gained about 8 lbs. but i did not find this to be hindering to me. i was climbing 5 days a week (3 days ropes and 2 days boulders) with 1 or 2 days of weights during this period. all training was done in the gym.
i then took 2 weeks off of the creatine and started again and it did nothing for me, it actually hurt me i think. i felt week and heavy.
this was all my own personal experience. other people i know have had different experiences, some good and some bad. i would suggest that if you try it to make sure you drink tons of water as you can cramp very easily. i had some very severe leg cramps during this time. i also have felt that the quick weight gain can open you up to injury. so be careful.
they have vegan glutamine and creatine at various places, its easy to find.
GO VEGAN, STAY VEGAN
