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Postby chriss » Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:16 am

Ok all I'm after some help here....
I feel I have all the individual things to climb harder, but can't seem to 'put it all together' as it were.
Stats are 5foot 7inches tall +2 ape index & weigh about 140lb.
I'm fit & healthy I can crimp small holds ok, lock holds ok, have good core strength & have been climbing for a loooonng time so I'm fairly good at working problems.
I have access to a 45 degree board, finger & campus boards too as bouldering is my main focus these days.
My only proper weakness are dynos & big moves, but i'm working on them.
At present I can mince most font 7a/+ or V6/7, but feel & wuuld like to be more of a font 7b/+ climber. I know V10 is not a real goal, but would like to move it up a bit.
cheers chris.
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Postby remixrobot » Tue Mar 24, 2009 3:16 pm

Hey Chriss...Just a couple questions about your current routine...

Do you do any work on the hang board or the campus board?

Have you had any rest periods lately?

I have a feeling that some type of campus regimen might be good for you. Big moves have typically been a weakness for me to. I found that a cood mix of campusing and technique dialing (footwork was really important for my big moves). It sounds like you have a good handle on strength and I think that you could skip the hangboard training. How is your Power Endurance?

I can give you an idea of what I do for a campus board routine if you would like...
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Postby chriss » Tue Mar 24, 2009 3:33 pm

I campus a bit, but try to static it too much as my explosive power is SO shit. Yeah please hit me with a campus routine as a change from mine would be good. Thanks
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Postby remixrobot » Wed Mar 25, 2009 12:04 am

Alright..Here is my campus routine as well as a couple other things Ill do:

After warming up with 45 minutes of climbing, I'll do (in this order)

Big Rungs:
Ladder up and down 2x
Skip 3 Rungs then drop back down and match. Repeat with the other hand before coming off. If I am going for Power endurance I will do this 4 times before coming off...If it is just power I might skip 4 rungs.

Double dyno's skipping 1 rung 1x

Double Dyno's skipping 2 rungs 1x

Ladder skipping 3 rungs 2x per leading hand

Medium Rungs:
Open handed laddering skipping 1 rung 2x
Open handed laddering skipping 2 rungs 2x
Open handed laddering skipping 3 rungs 2

Small rung:

Ladder skipping 1 rung 2x
Ladder skipping 3 rungs 2x

If you have access to a wall it is good to pick out a nice big deadpoint move where you can match on the start hold and do a really solid throw followed by a one arm lockoff...once locked off I let go with my lower hand and lower down to a dead hang..then drop. If the lockoff is really hard, try grabbing your wrist and doing it.

I will also do a few dyno's if I want to actually have fun but this is a great way to hurt your knee, ankle, climbing partner...be aware.

Let me know how it goes!
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Postby Dave Noisy » Thu Mar 26, 2009 8:39 pm

Big moves are easier if you've got loads of fast twitch muscles... Creatine might be helpful in this regard..
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Postby Clem Snide » Thu Mar 26, 2009 8:53 pm

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Postby chriss » Thu Mar 26, 2009 11:17 pm

So woulsd anyone endorse the use of creatine & if so is it any good?
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Postby tyson » Sat Mar 28, 2009 10:47 pm

chriss,
to help with your dynamic movement and explosive power, i would suggest training speed climbing. literally.
go and find a toprope route in your gym that is between 5.6-5.10a. then try to climb it as fast as you can. lower off rest a few minutes and try this again. sooner or later you will find that your rhythm becomes much better and you will be going up the wall much faster. soon you will find that you are dynamically moving through moves that you would have normally done statically.
we use this drill not only to train speed climbing but also for our climbers who tend to have the same problems you are having. climbing static is great for many things but a good dynamic ability will save you energy and become a very efficient tool in your climbing bag. i shit you not, speed climbing helps your bouldering and rhythm. there are plenty of videos on youtube featuring speed climbing. check out what the koreans and chinese are doing for speed times, it is pretty amazing.

also, from my personal experience, creatine can be helpful, but only to a point. i felt that after a winter of not really training it was a real quick way to jump start and recruit what i already had in me from many years of climbing and training for climbing. for the record i do not condone this or say it is good or bad, i am just letting you know my experience.
i have done a 4 week cycle before, using this type of program. this was based off of my weight of around 155lbs.
Week 1:
Creatine: 5g post-workout, 2g before bed.
Glutamine: 7g pre-workout, 7g post-workout, 8g before bed.
Week 2:
Creatine: 11g post-workout, 3g before bed.
Glutamine: 7g pre-workout, 7g post-workout, 8g before bed.
Week 3:
Creatine: 16g post-workout, 5g before bed.
Glutamine: 7g pre-workout, 7g post-workout, 8g before bed.
Week 4:
Creatine: 5g post-workout, 2g before bed.
Glutamine: 7g pre-workout, 7g post-workout, 8g before bed.



i found that this month of training was very helpful. i felt more powerful and was able to train for about an hour or an hour and a half longer than normal. i had one of my best training days ever while in week 3 of this cycle. i was able to train ropes for 3.5 hours without feeling like anything could stop me. however, i gained about 8 lbs. but i did not find this to be hindering to me. i was climbing 5 days a week (3 days ropes and 2 days boulders) with 1 or 2 days of weights during this period. all training was done in the gym.
i then took 2 weeks off of the creatine and started again and it did nothing for me, it actually hurt me i think. i felt week and heavy.
this was all my own personal experience. other people i know have had different experiences, some good and some bad. i would suggest that if you try it to make sure you drink tons of water as you can cramp very easily. i had some very severe leg cramps during this time. i also have felt that the quick weight gain can open you up to injury. so be careful.
they have vegan glutamine and creatine at various places, its easy to find.
GO VEGAN, STAY VEGAN
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Postby chriss » Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:21 pm

Hi all.........
Remix I had a whirl at your campus session, to be honest I found it hard, very hard, but will adjust it to suite me a bit more. With my freinds help it seems I have real timing issues with dynamic movement rather than lack of strength/ technique, so I'll be making dynos a regular on the training front & add a campus session once a week.
As for creatine I was being nosey really. Adding weight is something I don't want to do, not even muscle mass- let's face it I'm never going to hit V14 so I'll keep myself clean rather than hit the heavy stuff.
Cheers for the help so far.
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Postby tyson » Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:52 pm

chriss wrote:With my freinds help it seems I have real timing issues with dynamic movement rather than lack of strength/ technique,


chriss, this is where the speed climbing comes in. it really improves your timing and rhythm which will translate to how your body moves on the wall in dynamic situations. im not just making this up. try it.
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Postby chriss » Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:30 pm

Tyson I'm 100% with you. I'll give it a try It makes perfect sense I didn't think you were writting random stuff....
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Postby Dave Noisy » Tue Mar 31, 2009 2:36 am

chriss wrote:So woulsd anyone endorse the use of creatine & if so is it any good?

Uh..me?=)

I've had a much more positive experience all-around, but i'd also advocate limiting to 5g a day (just take the same time every day, morning, night, whenever..) I don't think you'd need *that* much for climbing...and it'll likely cause a lot more weight-gain than is useful for climbing. (Not to mention stress out your body, creatine is hard on the kidneys. If you drink or have a lifestyle that already taxes your kidneys, take less.)

My two cents anyway...
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Postby remixrobot » Tue Mar 31, 2009 4:03 am

During periods of hard training I have taken 2g daily. I didn't notice any difference and I did not gain any weight. Its been a while since I have taken it...

Any luck with the speed climbing? That is the first time I have heard of using that technique for building explosive movement...it makes sense though.

Hows the digit rev?

Did you ever go to New York Chriss?
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Postby chriss » Thu Apr 02, 2009 8:37 am

I haven't had a chance to hit the speed climbing yet, but have sped up my bouldering.
I may give a little creatine a go if it dosent help I'll stop- what harm could it do ;)
As for NY sadly no too many people let me down which was a real shame as I really wanted to get out there. I'm off to Switzerland, Italy & Spain end of the month so I have that to look forward to.
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Postby tyson » Sun Apr 05, 2009 3:55 am

chriss wrote:I haven't had a chance to hit the speed climbing yet, but have sped up my bouldering.
I may give a little creatine a go if it dosent help I'll stop- what harm could it do ;)
As for NY sadly no too many people let me down which was a real shame as I really wanted to get out there. I'm off to Switzerland, Italy & Spain end of the month so I have that to look forward to.


chriss,
a great speed climbing drill is to do it in the bouldering room.
just pick a wall that is slightly overhanging, say twenty or thirty degrees, and just start chucking fast laps on it. if you have the option at your gym you can get some pretty good size jugs and litter a wall with them. this should make for about 3 or 4 speed moves. this is great if you cant find a partner to belay you and it pretty much will do the same thing for your movement and timing.
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