Climbing training

All other sports and activities not mentioned above!

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Postby chriss » Mon Nov 10, 2008 2:30 pm

Nice one Dave, good to see your progressing well. I'm not to hot on US grades, but I think your about a UK 5c man forgive me if i've undergraded you, i'm fine with V grades though.
We have such an ace set up as our local wall is rubbish & London walls work out expensive & are an hour away so a motivated group of us found a unit to rent & built our little wall, it's spot on for us steep, powerful bouldering we have all made massive improvments.
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Postby remixrobot » Tue Nov 11, 2008 5:37 pm

...
Last edited by remixrobot on Wed Jan 06, 2010 6:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Frostfire » Tue Nov 11, 2008 7:48 pm

Pictures???
http://www.ChingSanctuary.org
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Postby chriss » Tue Nov 11, 2008 11:04 pm

Monster tick list, good work.
Lots of 3 star problems in there, I've got to get out to the US the place looks amazing, shame you are so far away...... :cry:
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Postby Dave Noisy » Mon Nov 17, 2008 12:12 am

Thanks!

Got out again on Friday, taking on the 10b's (cleared one no-prob) and 10b/c's...moving up! =)
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Postby tyson » Sun Dec 21, 2008 8:25 pm

i just found this forum and wanted to introduce myself.
my name is tyson schoene and i am the head coach of http://teamverticalworld.com/
i am also one of the coaches for the US national climbing team and work for the http://usaclimbing.net/
would love to get some new ideas and also help out in anyway i can with training for other vegans.
thanks
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Postby Dave Noisy » Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:56 pm

Hey Tyson -- welcome!! Nice to have you here, we'll have to pick your brain for climbing tips. =)
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Postby tyson » Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:17 am

Dave Noisy wrote:Hey Tyson -- welcome!! Nice to have you here, we'll have to pick your brain for climbing tips. =)

please feel free at any time. :D
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Postby chriss » Tue Dec 23, 2008 7:02 pm

Hi Tyson, I had a go at this when i first joined, but no one seemed up for it. I'm keen for training so may pick your brain at some point.
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Postby Dave Noisy » Wed Dec 24, 2008 9:54 pm

Have any of you seen this website:

http://onsitenutrition.blogspot.com

Apparently they're focusing on climbing-specific nutrition.. I'm not sure what that would mean or include, but might be worthwhile getting some vegans responding to their survey. =)
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Postby remixrobot » Mon Dec 29, 2008 2:23 am

Hey Tyson.

I am up visiting family in Kirkland right now and checked out your Redmond gym. Good times! I also got to drive by some of the outdoor artificial structures...really cool set up they have around here. Too bad the weather is how it is.

Keep up the good work at the gym!


p.s. Put up some hard routes!
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Postby tyson » Tue Dec 30, 2008 4:11 am

robot,
awesome. glad you like it there.
do you mean hard rope routes or boulders? i can do whatever you need.
thanks
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Postby Rob » Tue Dec 30, 2008 4:44 am

I haven't climbed in a while, which may be why my forearms are getting skinny again, but if anyone in toronto wants to go and needs a partner, let me know. I usually go to Rock Oasis at king/bathurst.
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Postby Dave Noisy » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:24 am

Hey, i'll look ya up next time i'm back east! (Might be a while tho!)

I can offer the same if you ever happen into Victoria. =)
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Postby tyson » Fri Jan 09, 2009 5:06 am

guys and gals, here is a workout that i have been running for the past week with my climbing team.
this is done in a 3 hour time period. this entire workout is focusing on lock off strength and static movement. this is all done in the bouldering room. keep in mind that i run this with 12-20 kids at a time of all ability levels, so this workout can be done by anybody of any skill level. i have V0 eight year olds doing this and V12 18 year olds doing this.

4-4:45pm- warm up with a full gym traverse and 30 points (points are achieved by climbing V grades that equal points. ie V1 is 1 point and V2 is 2 points and V3 is 3 points etc)
4:45-5:15pm- 6-8 boulder problems in a lock off drill. ie take a boulder problem about 2 V grades below your onsight level. do the problem from start to finish while locking off each move. to do this, do a move, pull up and lock the hold at chin height and drop the other hand and hold it behind your back for 3-5 second. do this from start to finish on each move. the trick is keeping your body tight and making sure you are in a position to where you can drop one hand and lock off the other one. do this for 6-8 problems with 3-4 minutes rest in between problems. this is about 1 problem every 5 minutes.
5:15-5:45pm- single move lock off drill. this is best done with a partner, which actually most training is. you and your partner go around the bouldering room and find holds that you want to challenge eachother to lock off.
ie joe goes to a hold and says to suzie "suzie, ill bet you cant lock this hold off!"
suzie says "screw you joe, im a beast and i will totally crush this hold. and i will only do it with one foot on!"
so suzie goes to the 45 degree wall and grabs the hold with say her right hand and uses another hold for her left to help her get up and lock it off, then she drops the left hand and locks it off until failure.
this is to be done with equal lock offs on right and left hands. this is best done on steeper wall. so in half and hour this should give you about 15 -18 total lockoffs.
pick holds that are hard for you to hold. if buckets are hard for you to lock off, then please feel free to use them and dont feel bad. this is about you and your climbing not anybody elses.
5:45-6:15pm- stick game (or laser pointer) locked off. this as well is done best with a partner or a couple partners.
climber 1 has the stick first, and points to a start hold of his or her choice. climber 2 starts on that hold and locks it off like in the previous drills, 3-5 seconds. during this 3-5 seconds climber 1 points to the next hold with either a stick or the laser pointer. climber 2 does the move, pulls up and locks it off, while dropping the other hand, for 3-5 seconds. this continues for 10-15 moves. the trick is to judge your partners ability and choose holds that will challenge them but will also allow them to do the lock offs as best they can. if they fall in the first few moves have them get back on. when climber 2 is done with the first problem then hand them the stick and they will do the same thing for climber 1. in half an hour you should do between 4-7 problems each.
6:15-6:45pm- 4x4 locked off. do a regular 4x4, but do each problem locked off each move. this should be done about 2 V grades below your onsight level or below that even.
a 4x4 (the way we run it) is 4 problems, 4 times each. ie choose a problem and do it, then drop from the top (or downclimb if you are old like me) and do it again, and again, and one last time. then rest 2 minutes. then find another problem, and do it, drop off, and do it again, and again, and one last time. then do this for 2 more problems. so a 4x4 locked off mean that you do the above with each move being fully locked off just like in the previous drills.
6:45 till the end, do some easy climbing to warm down and then some core workouts and some water drinking and some stretching.

i will post more of these things when i have time. i literally have hundreds of daily and weekly and monthly workouts that i have come up with or stolen from others over the years.
have fun.
stay vegan.
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