guys and gals, here is a workout that i have been running for the past week with my climbing team.
this is done in a 3 hour time period. this entire workout is focusing on lock off strength and static movement. this is all done in the bouldering room. keep in mind that i run this with 12-20 kids at a time of all ability levels, so this workout can be done by anybody of any skill level. i have V0 eight year olds doing this and V12 18 year olds doing this.
4-4:45pm- warm up with a full gym traverse and 30 points (points are achieved by climbing V grades that equal points. ie V1 is 1 point and V2 is 2 points and V3 is 3 points etc)
4:45-5:15pm- 6-8 boulder problems in a lock off drill. ie take a boulder problem about 2 V grades below your onsight level. do the problem from start to finish while locking off each move. to do this, do a move, pull up and lock the hold at chin height and drop the other hand and hold it behind your back for 3-5 second. do this from start to finish on each move. the trick is keeping your body tight and making sure you are in a position to where you can drop one hand and lock off the other one. do this for 6-8 problems with 3-4 minutes rest in between problems. this is about 1 problem every 5 minutes.
5:15-5:45pm- single move lock off drill. this is best done with a partner, which actually most training is. you and your partner go around the bouldering room and find holds that you want to challenge eachother to lock off.
ie joe goes to a hold and says to suzie "suzie, ill bet you cant lock this hold off!"
suzie says "screw you joe, im a beast and i will totally crush this hold. and i will only do it with one foot on!"
so suzie goes to the 45 degree wall and grabs the hold with say her right hand and uses another hold for her left to help her get up and lock it off, then she drops the left hand and locks it off until failure.
this is to be done with equal lock offs on right and left hands. this is best done on steeper wall. so in half and hour this should give you about 15 -18 total lockoffs.
pick holds that are hard for you to hold. if buckets are hard for you to lock off, then please feel free to use them and dont feel bad. this is about you and your climbing not anybody elses.
5:45-6:15pm- stick game (or laser pointer) locked off. this as well is done best with a partner or a couple partners.
climber 1 has the stick first, and points to a start hold of his or her choice. climber 2 starts on that hold and locks it off like in the previous drills, 3-5 seconds. during this 3-5 seconds climber 1 points to the next hold with either a stick or the laser pointer. climber 2 does the move, pulls up and locks it off, while dropping the other hand, for 3-5 seconds. this continues for 10-15 moves. the trick is to judge your partners ability and choose holds that will challenge them but will also allow them to do the lock offs as best they can. if they fall in the first few moves have them get back on. when climber 2 is done with the first problem then hand them the stick and they will do the same thing for climber 1. in half an hour you should do between 4-7 problems each.
6:15-6:45pm- 4x4 locked off. do a regular 4x4, but do each problem locked off each move. this should be done about 2 V grades below your onsight level or below that even.
a 4x4 (the way we run it) is 4 problems, 4 times each. ie choose a problem and do it, then drop from the top (or downclimb if you are old like me) and do it again, and again, and one last time. then rest 2 minutes. then find another problem, and do it, drop off, and do it again, and again, and one last time. then do this for 2 more problems. so a 4x4 locked off mean that you do the above with each move being fully locked off just like in the previous drills.
6:45 till the end, do some easy climbing to warm down and then some core workouts and some water drinking and some stretching.
i will post more of these things when i have time. i literally have hundreds of daily and weekly and monthly workouts that i have come up with or stolen from others over the years.