Climbing training

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Postby remixrobot » Fri Nov 07, 2008 2:07 am

Ok...I don't even want to bite on that one but I have a couple things to say.

I did get stronger and did climb "better" than I did before on every program I have done. I understand training protocol because of my time as a elite road cyclist. I followed the plans which were specifically designed for me. my schedule and my goals. I just wasn't motivated and it wasnt that fun for me. Climbing 13a was cool...but it was just a number at that point...not a great line.

I am now climbing very well simply by working problems..learning moves and campusing every now and then. Following my stopwatch and some training cards sucked the fun out of it. It got me into the 12's but climbing by feel has gotten me well into the 13's..and much more quickly/without injury.

Climbing is much more well rounded now.

Please. Climb the way that is most fun for you. Wear the shoes that fit your feet the best. Do static moves if it works better for you.

Climbing is what you make it. Not what people tell you it should be.

















Unless you are an aid climber. Then it is all about getting lost in the dark and rapelling. Thats it.
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Postby Dave Noisy » Fri Nov 07, 2008 6:15 am

heh - thanks everyone. Cool that everyone is doing what they enjoy. =)
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Postby chriss » Fri Nov 07, 2008 4:01 pm

I'm no fighter & NOT looking for an argument with anyone, but I seems to be getting alot of bad feedback. I don't know if it's because i'm new to the forum, from the UK or whatever, but please give me half a chance. As a new vegan, but long term climber I thought a discussion on climbing training would be a good fun & I might learn some thing. My advice has been washed over or dismissed as rubbish. Not wanting to end on a down note thanks to all that have been possitive & freindly.
On a sub note training that dose not motivate is not worth doing, training should always have an aspect of fun or motivate you towards your goals.
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Postby remixrobot » Fri Nov 07, 2008 4:12 pm

chriss wrote:On a sub note training that dose not motivate is not worth doing, training should always have an aspect of fun or motivate you towards your goals.


This is all I was trying to say. Im sorry if it came off as an argument but I just wanted to make sure that this wan't presented as an absolute.

No hard feelings and Im sorry if I came off rough.

Im headed down to Bishop for a bunch of days...report and photos upon my return.
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Postby Gelert » Fri Nov 07, 2008 4:25 pm

chriss wrote:I'm no fighter & NOT looking for an argument with anyone, but I seems to be getting alot of bad feedback. I don't know if it's because i'm new to the forum, from the UK or whatever, but please give me half a chance. As a new vegan, but long term climber I thought a discussion on climbing training would be a good fun & I might learn some thing. My advice has been washed over or dismissed as rubbish. Not wanting to end on a down note thanks to all that have been possitive & freindly.
On a sub note training that dose not motivate is not worth doing, training should always have an aspect of fun or motivate you towards your goals.


Hey, if you want to try bad feedback, try telling people that cake is the answer :wink:

If you feel you have had a rough ride, I'm sorry to hear that, it's certainly not because of your being from the UK, quite a few of us are.

There's also quite a few other experienced climbers on the board, ranging from boulderers to Himalayan monsters (well, just the one), and it is quite likely that not everyone's going to be on the same song sheet, whether it's for shoes or training. They're probably keen to give advice from their own experiences as well.

Doesn't mean that there's arguments. Particularly if people are just wanting to discuss or debate.


remixrobot wrote:Then it is all about getting lost in the dark and rapelling.


Pretty decent summary of my climbing efforts. Maybe add some frostnip and concussion. Maybe thats why (from my inexperienced position) training to climb is best limited to just doing the climbing itself...
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Postby revolushuneyz » Fri Nov 07, 2008 5:43 pm

Personally, the only thing that motivates me to climb is the potential of getting laid. and only people who boulder V10s and climb 13s are attractive, so I gots to chalk it up and tie it in, quick. (that was a tasteless joke).

Remix, can't wait to hear the report-back.
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Postby chriss » Sat Nov 08, 2008 11:14 am

I have met a few girlfriends through climbing so I like your style...
Chocolate cake & beer are the answer to all problems too.
I wasn't looking for the sympathy vote on here as a bit of debate shows that people are passionate about their climbing, which is good. I was simply offering good advice. The fact that we all climb indoors shows that we are all training in one way or another be it campussing, fingerboarding or general routing & bouldering, why do we do this? To get better otherwise we would climb now and then as the weather allows & only aspire to V0.
Hope your trip is a good one & you get all your projects, again no hard feelings either.
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Postby Frostfire » Sun Nov 09, 2008 3:32 am

chriss wrote:Chocolate cake & beer are the answer to all problems too.

Amen to that :lol: !

Hum, that bit about only climbing when we can and weather allows sounds like me ;) - I'm such a fair-weather climber :mrgreen: !
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Postby Gelert » Sun Nov 09, 2008 1:14 pm

Frostfire wrote:Hum, that bit about only climbing when we can and weather allows sounds like me ;) - I'm such a fair-weather climber :mrgreen: !


Climbing in Britain teaches you either to retreat into the warmth of indoor climbing or to brave rain, hail, snow and strong winds. I was cracking on nicely March-May but it hasn't happened much since.

I was hoping to get by with dodging squalls today, but spying a park bench being blown over in next door's garden put me off the three mile walk-in over some of mid-Wales's finest upland bogs.


Any opinions on whether spending £100 on a bumper bag of holds and weapons grade plywood is a stupid idea or not?
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Postby Frostfire » Sun Nov 09, 2008 3:39 pm

Gelert wrote:Any opinions on whether spending £100 on a bumper bag of holds and weapons grade plywood is a stupid idea or not?

Best idea ever :mrgreen:

As for going indoors, I'm definitely going to do that this winter. It was a nice day yesterday, but already its clouding up and supposed to rain/snow. How did I ever deal with all this crappy weather before my El Paso days???
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Postby The Duke » Sun Nov 09, 2008 5:37 pm

Gelert wrote:Climbing in Britain teaches you either to retreat into the warmth of indoor climbing or to brave rain, hail, snow and strong winds.


And it's even worse in the Winter.
Free the Guinea Pigs.
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Postby Gelert » Sun Nov 09, 2008 6:15 pm

The Duke wrote:
Gelert wrote:Climbing in Britain teaches you either to retreat into the warmth of indoor climbing or to brave rain, hail, snow and strong winds.


And it's even worse in the Winter.


Exactly. Difference is, in winter, snow is A Good Thing.
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Postby chriss » Sun Nov 09, 2008 7:44 pm

DO IT!!!!!!!! me and my mates have our own training/climbing wall. It's 13 foot high 8foot wide and 45degrees steep. We also have a 9 rung campus board, fingerboards & pull up bar, any home set-up will be worth it. I'm praying for some cold dry weather as the UK has been rubbish so far this winter, if not i'm hitting the beer & cake. :D
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Postby Dave Noisy » Mon Nov 10, 2008 3:14 am

Frostfire wrote:
chriss wrote:Chocolate cake & beer are the answer to all problems too.

Amen to that :lol: !

Not to all the chocolate-allergic alcoholics out there!! =P
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Postby Dave Noisy » Mon Nov 10, 2008 3:18 am

Wow, those are some impressive home set-ups! I just found out a cycling buddy has a basement set-up too (but never goes to the gym. =(

Made it out to the gym on Fri, after over a week away, my fingers felt really solid, and i totally cleaned a couple 10a's, and some 9's that were giving me a little grief. Yip! Will work on the a's a bit more, and move up to b's and c's.

I also worked out a great deal for a 5-month membership (they only do 1, 3 and year deals, so i'm pretty lucky they etched this out. =)

My goal is to be doing close to 12's by the end of that (of course, without doing any specific 'training' besides just climbing..haha)

Also made two new climbing buddies, one was even vegan!! What are the chances?? (The other is vegetarian.)
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