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ATTN: Mountaineers

PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 5:26 am
by slodki
Has anyone had success finding a down alternative expedition parka?

Re: ATTN: Mountaineers

PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:55 am
by Gelert
Aye, plenty of synthetic alternatives out there usually built around a pertex outer and primaloft insulation. Usually heavier and less compressible than down but a mega advantage is that they take the wet when down doesn't fare so well. It's usually cheaper.

In the UK market I can recommend Montane's "toasty" jacket - I've used on many UK mountains and in the High Arctic. I'm not sure if they're still made but I'm sure their latest synthetic offerings eg. the Flux jacket would perform just as well.

Otherwise Patagonia do a good line in synthetic insulation, for example their DAS parka is highly recommended for use as a belay jacket, but I have no personal experience of that.

Re: ATTN: Mountaineers

PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 1:38 pm
by dublin dave
I've used to have the 2008/2009 version of this jacket and really loved it...warm, comfortable and the hood will go over a climbing helmet...unfortunately I lost my jacket moving house... :cry:

http://www.planetfear.com/item/Brand_HaglofsBarrierZoneHood_1621_0_27726_2.html

http://primaloft.com/outdoor_EG/index.html

Re: ATTN: Mountaineers

PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 2:59 pm
by Gelert
^
Ms. Gelert has one of those and she really likes it.

Plus Paramo do synthetic isulation in their "torres" jacket.

Both paramo and patagonia have fairly good ethical reputation/marketing (same thing?).

Re: ATTN: Mountaineers

PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 3:22 pm
by vCLaW
I've got a Keela Belay jacket, and I like it. http://www.keela.co.uk/index.php?main_p ... cts_id=210
It is Primaloft, and is very warm, though no hood. Its available fairly cheaply, I think I got mine for about £40.

Last time I checked, it seems the Montane Toasty is no longer available. The Montane Flux is a fair bit lighter weight, so presumably not as warm.
I also looked at the North Face Redpoint Optimus jacket (also Primaloft), though its a bit more expensive.

Re: ATTN: Mountaineers

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 7:15 am
by slodki
i'm looking for a vegan version of this jacket
Image
i'm going to climb denali in over a year's time and am trying to plan. i think i may just call the manufacturer about it, alternatively i can always sew my own.

Re: ATTN: Mountaineers

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 1:19 pm
by Gelert
The construction of down and synthetic insulated jackets is a bit of a dark art, and there are specifics to the way each has to be built (baffles and such - yadda), so it's unlikely you'd be able to get a primaloft filled version of *that* jacket.

If the montane toasty is not to your liking (and it *is* still for sale online) then a better bet is to contact a fairly small scale manufacturer to get one custom made. One with an excellent reputation for (even custom made) insulated gear is Peter Hutchinson Designs (www.phdesigns.co.uk), albeit primarily with down, he does include synthetic insulation in his off-the-shelf stuff. But be prepared to pay!

Re: ATTN: Mountaineers

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 6:54 pm
by slodki
thanks gelert, very informative. i posted the mt. hardware jacket because it was the recommended jacket in the pack list and i just wanted to show specifically what i am looking for.

Re: ATTN: Mountaineers

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 8:48 pm
by ninearms