Vegan Climbing

[Dave Noisy]

Thanks remixrobot!

I'm doing this mainly for fun, so spending more time doing the same climbs over and over and over (ie, more 8's) would suck that out of it. (Our gym only has enough space for 4-6 of each level, tops.)

I don't really think it's so much the warm-up tho.. It's prolly just the combination of me advancing faster than my fingers can keep up, and not doing any specific training to enable that..haha..

[revolushuneyz]

soooo....with the climbing coming, what do I do, folks, I mess up a tendon. Middle right finger. Ballz. And what's worth, I do it not while sending some amazing problem, oh nooooo, but while I am putting on my shoes! Honestly. You read that correctly. So I'm out for a few days. Icing and what-not.

[remixrobot]

yeah rev....blowing out your finger...thats not really what you're supposed to do...

And it would only make sense to do it while putting your shoes on...

That really sucks...I feel your pain. Take your time healing though. That has been the biggest lesson with my knee blowing up. At least I still have functioning hands though.

I screwed up a tendon in my hand a couple years ago and as it was healing I completely fell in love with crack climbing. Not even super strenuous roof cracks..just anything really. It was really nice and allowed me to continue climbing without quickly stressing my injured digit. It did wonders for my large muscle groups and my stamina as well...

I thought that after a week when my hand was pain free I would be okay to climb again...which I did, just at about half of my normal limit. I kept up the crack climbing and Once my hand was super healed (i.e. 6 weeks) I had really good fitness and noticed a huge jump in my climbing...good luck!

[remixrobot]

Hey all...Here is a little report from the past couple days...

I went out on Tuesday and did a long (4 hour) hike...Scoped out osme new areas that have a ton of potential for both routes and bouldering...I am super stoked to get out there and clean/bolt some stuff once it gets too hot around here...

Yesterday I did some rope soloing on a few longish routes in the 10a-11c range. I did this really cool corner crack feature that runs up for about 70ft before turning into this wierd, awkward sphere shaped blank 20' feature. You mantle up on this little 4 inch ledge and are literally laying your head against the sphere thing as you stand on one good foot and bring both hands up to a bear hug and crimp sequence....scary..and only 10d!

Here are some pictures from that:
Stance above first steep section

A good ledge:

Now its a little exposed...right before the mantle/crux section

The anchors and a shot of my solo toprope setup:



Basically, I fix the rope to that blue cordelette with a knot and have a slack rope tied off to that big tree as backup. I use a mini traxion as my device...

After I did a few routes I went over to check out a long standing crack project. It is really short and not really protectable so I am going to have a go at it as a highball problem. Supposedly it is .13b but it has never been lead..and who gives cracks a letter grade anyway? I wanted to scope it out on toprope first though. There isn't an easy access to the top of the boulder so I did something unspeakable...

Don't tell anyone.

I aid climbed.

Well, sort of. I did a rodeo lasso of this big oak tree and jugged up it to get to the anchors at 30 feet...The top of the rock is SO mossy and scary though...

Here is my line rigged to the tree..I tied a figure 8 and clipped a couple lockers in there for weight...I swung it around a few times and clipped the rope..voila..

Then I jugged...


I have to admit though. I really like aid climbing...I might actually do it on purpose on a route this summer just for kicks...

Now, I realize I should have taken a photo of the actual crack..whoops. Ill get one next week. I am really excited to have a couple of projects though and cant wait for my knee to heal up!

Also...sorry for all the photos...I just figured out how to post photos correctly everytime so I will probably be putting up a bunch of stuff in the next few weeks...

[revolushuneyz]

Remix, you are officially my favourite person. That is an amazing set-up.

And don't apologize for photos. It means your posts are much shorter text-wise

(that's a throw-back to your message about always writing heinously long posts).

Dear world, I am about to say something I never expected/wanted to say ever: I have to miss climbing this weekend to stuff wedding invitations. Gross. Not my wedding, my best friend's. Still, gross.

[Dave Noisy]

Wow - nice shots and climb! Huggy! haha..

Rev - sorry about the finger, hilarious way to do it in, i guess you need to switch over to velco. ;)

So my climbing is officially done until next fall! I'll prolly try and get out for a few outdoor adventures, but with a new bike and improved weather and light in the evenings, i'm itching to ride 5-6 days a week now, and i'm afraid i'll be acting on that. =)

I'll keep an eye on the climbing threads tho, jealous of your adventures.

Stay safe, and tie your shoes carefully.

[remixrobot]

Thanks for the nice words guys...

Dave:What kind of bike are you riding? I hope its made out of bamboo...

Rev: You should be taking a break anyways..remember! How is the finger doing anyhow? Have you been climbing on it again?

A couple shots of the "gym" (undisclosed location...doesn't exist)

Routes from .11c to .14c


Pumped:



Ok..no more pictures today.

[chriss]

Fooking good work Remix looks like an ace day out. I'll give you campus routine a go tomorow, cheers for that....
Revo hope the finger is healing better, on a similar note I broke my nose squashing beer cans into a bin, so your not the only one to bust yourself up in a stupid way!
Dave please don't go!!!!!!!! Surely you can spare your chalk bag one evening a week if not good luck & stay safe on the velo..

[Dave Noisy]

Aww - thanks! I'll stick around the forum at least, and will try to get some outdoor sessions in, but can't really commit to much. Will be back in Nov tho, looking forward to that. =)

And no, not a Bamboo bike - too heavy!! It'll be green tho. ;)

[revolushuneyz]

Remix, that is epic. I'm dying to get out your way.

The finger is healing. Slowly. I did some light light light training last night. About 30 minutes on a vertical wall and another 1.5 hours of general training. But for the 30 minutes I didn't tape and instead climbed slowly and intentionally, just to get a sense of what it feels like, injuries and all. It's not so bad, but no crimps. Tomorrow i'll tape. Ice. blah blah blah...boring!! Kidding. Over the next couple weeks I'll focus on getting light.

Easter weekend is coming up and I'm climbing...or at least that's what I keep saying. If it doesn't rain this weekend, likely head out to some local spots.

[chriss]

How was Easter for you lot then, anyone get up to much?
I had a quiet one, didn't climb at all

[violetti]

At VFW 2008 I tried out outdoor climbing. Today I'll go to climb indoors. Third time now. It's so fun. The climbing hall is 17 m high. Haven't dare to climb that high yet. About 10 m is all good to me in this stage. I'd like to develop in indoor climbing. Fortunately I have a few mates who are good at climbing so they can give me tips. Last time I was quite tired because of gym day before. Now my muscles are not that sore so perhaps I'll be able to climb more today than last time. First climbing shoes felt quite nasty but now I'm used to them.

[chriss]

Hi Vio & welcolme to our little vegan climbing world, we are all lovely people here!
Climbing is amazing so stick with it. If you haven't already it might be worth having a look at the other climbing bits on here for some words of wisdom.

[violetti]

chriss, thanks a lot! i wrote into climbing training -thread. i don't know how often i'll do climbing but at times definitely! good training! <3

[chriss]

Today is the big off- 2 month Euro road trip! I can't wait it's going to be amazing......