Climbing shoes

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Postby chriss » Thu Nov 06, 2008 1:34 pm

I havent owned Evolv shoes, so really can't keep the fight up, they are Vegan which is great & Sharma has his own design so they must be ok no matter how much he is being paid. On the subject of the amazing Anasazi's i'm still voting them as the best, but they do have dodgy heel fitment.
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Postby Dave Noisy » Fri Nov 28, 2008 8:23 pm

Gah - just had the most frustrating experience.

I was browsing through the MEC (Mountain Equipment Coop) catalog and website looking for new shoes (mine are folding on the outside edge, shoe too wide for my narrow foot), and went to the shop, and compared the women's (blue) Sportiva Katana's (which are listed as synthetic) and Five Ten Anasazi's (one's with the symbol on the toe, VCS maybe..?)

I tried several sizes of each, and ruled out the Five Ten's because they too were folding (it was a mens shoe too), but the Katana's were holding up nicely (although not as comfy in the heel).

Opted for the Katana's. Brought them home. They were sitting on my desk, and i happened to glance at the label in the shoe - LEATHER!!!! FRACK ME!!

I was *so* excited about these...as this edging problem has been plaguing me... I've posted reviews on the MEC site, warning vegans.

Took 'em back, and ordered (sight unseen) a pair o the Five Ten Jet 7 shoes, which look *really* aggressive, but hopefully offer what i'm looking for (no biggy to return if not.)

Anyone here ever use the Jet 7 shoes?

I'm *loving* the velcro tho..
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Postby revolushuneyz » Fri Nov 28, 2008 8:31 pm

I have heard from numerous folks that the Jet's are the bomb. Apparently really good shoes.
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Postby chriss » Mon Dec 01, 2008 4:13 pm

Anastazi blues are low volume as are the Pontas, i'm not starting anything, just pointing out some info.
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Postby remixrobot » Mon Dec 01, 2008 6:31 pm

The Jet 7 are really cool aggresive shoes. You might have some issues on real sensitive smearing but they should edge really well. they have rubber all over them too which is nice if you are doing a lot of bouldering.

Some of my thin footed friends have had good luck with the pontas or even the Hera from evolv. They seem really long for my fat feet but they have all the traits of a good all around shoe.

Has anyone been climbing recently?
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Postby Frostfire » Mon Dec 01, 2008 9:06 pm

Up until Thanksgiving, I was outside climbing every week, hooray! But now my climbing partner is out of town and its supposed to snow again tomorrow :evil: .
http://www.ChingSanctuary.org
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Postby Dave Noisy » Wed Dec 03, 2008 8:28 pm

Funnily, the two pairs arrived just before i opened this thread. =)

Just tried 'em on, the 8.5US are still too tight (big toe crammed in very uncomfortably), the 9's feel decent, but perhaps still too tight.

I'll bring 'em to the gym tonite, and get a better feel...

So funny with those little hooked toes..i feel like Hawk Man or something!

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Postby Gelert » Wed Dec 03, 2008 9:53 pm

Very niche announcement: PlanetFear have half priced Anasazis in size UK5.

http://www.planetfear.com/item/Brand_51 ... 064_1.html
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Postby Dave Noisy » Wed Dec 10, 2008 6:36 am

Loving the new shoes! Injured my finger on a MTB ride on Sunday, so might not be back to the gym until Friday...but the shoes have been fab. =)
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Five Ten or Evolv

Postby kathrynjeanne » Wed Dec 10, 2008 3:26 pm

My first climbing shoes were Evolv, and they're good, but I LOVE my five ten climbing shoes. They have lots of different styles, so definitely do your research for the type of climbing you'll be doing, before you buy them. Check out five ten's website...they have amazing close out deals!
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Postby remixrobot » Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:29 pm

hey kathryn. haven't seen you around here before.

welcome.

Setting routes at work the other day and a feature was dropped on me. I only have one eye that opens now.

Who says danger is only in the climbing.
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Postby kathrynjeanne » Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:39 pm

Ouch, remixrobot, that would hurt!

I am new to the site, as of today :)
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Postby Dave Noisy » Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:36 pm

Ouch! I hope that's just temporary!!

Welcome kathrynjeanne!

I'm REALLY loving my new Jet 7's.....took on a 10c that has always been trouble for me due to the tiny footholds, and it was nearly a cinch!! (It was the end of my session, so i was fatigued and stopped once on it...but otherwise..!!)

Also did some bouldering in the cave, and they're something else for this stuff (i guess what they're really designed for.) I could jam my toes in, and hook holds like they were nothing...freaking awesome!!
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Postby tyson » Sun Dec 21, 2008 9:03 pm

i personally have climbed in evolv shoes for the past 4 years. i have worn pretty close to every model that they make except for a couple of the leather ones (yes they do make a couple leather models as well as their trail shoes being leather except for the escapist which is vegan).
each of their shoes fits differently and sizes differently. not all shoes made by one company should fit the same. if a company is doing it right they will make different styles for different styles of feet and climbing. evolv does this and so do most others.
i know plenty of evolv sponsored climbers that love and stand by their shoes and the company in general. i rarely hear anyone complain about evolv except maybe the longevity of their lower priced models such as the defy and the electra. in all seriousness if there are sponsored evolv climbers that are talking crap and not psyched on the shoes then maybe they should look for another sponsor.

five ten makes great shoes too and have plenty of synthetic shoes, but also have leathers. their anasazi line, except for the moc is synthetic. their jet 7 and dragons are also synthetic.

sportiva makes no synthetic shoes except for some of their trail shoes. the katana has a synthetic toe box to avoid stretch but the rest of the shoe is leather. the last all synthetic shoe they made was the mantra S, which if you can find it, is one of the best training shoes ever made. but they have discontinued it.

the best way to figure out what works for you is to find a shop (personally i think the gyms have the most knowledgable shoe staff) that is willing to spend the time with you and give you multiple styles of synthetic shoes and styles. down turned, flat, laced, velcro etc. they will all fit your feet different and be made for different styles of climbing.
also note that if you are a size 8 in say a pontas lace up you will not be the same size in a optimus prime. the difference is quite dramatic.

i have worked in the gym for the past 8 years and have fitted hundreds of customers to different styles of climbing shoes. of course i always push them toward the synthetics :wink:
the only way to really figure it out is to try plenty of different pairs and even then you will always find a pair that you like better after you buy one style.
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Late to the game

Postby JElay » Mon May 25, 2009 4:56 pm

I just have to put in a plug for the Five Ten Gambit. I love them. They are like a second skin on my feet and provide just enough protection while allowing me to really feel the rock. I wear the men's model even though I'm a woman because I have slightly wider feet and they fit better.

I think synthetic climbing shoes are gaining popularity. I've met plenty of non-veg climbers that prefer synthetic because they breathe better and don't hold sweat and smells as much.
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