Climbing shoes

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Postby revolushuneyz » Tue Oct 28, 2008 2:54 pm

honestly, i think Evolv is garbage. The shoes fit weird and the tongues are massive. Five Ten, if you can find them vegan, are well worth it.

Shoes are however extremely subjective, from my knowledge Evolv and Anasazi's are the most likely to be vegan. I would try a bunch of pairs on and walk around in them. Test the heel (you don't want extra space in the ball), the arch (is there an air pocket?) and how cramped are your feet? Different shoes are made for different foot shapes. All shoes will be crampy, but it should be over-all cramped, not a particular toe or area of your foot.
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Postby chriss » Tue Oct 28, 2008 3:43 pm

'honestly, i think Evolv is garbage. The shoes fit weird and the tongues are massive'.
Chris Sharma & Lisa Rands are both Evolv climbers & Sharma has his own model (pontas?) so i have to dissagree.
I do agree that climbing shoes are a very personal thing & a bit of trial & error is required, but if you after performance go tight, i use the plastic bag trick. Also walking around in them is not good advice for this type of performance shoe, they are not designed to be used like that, stand on some edges, smears etc to test them out. If your after comfort i'd look at another model.
Last edited by chriss on Tue Oct 28, 2008 3:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Gelert » Tue Oct 28, 2008 3:46 pm

Joe Brown used to climb in his socks.



It's not the shoe on the climber, it's the climber in the shoe.



With me in my ten euro decathalon shoes, I'm buggered either way.
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Postby revolushuneyz » Wed Oct 29, 2008 2:33 pm

[quote="chriss"]'honestly, i think Evolv is garbage. The shoes fit weird and the tongues are massive'.
Chris Sharma & Lisa Rands are both Evolv climbers & Sharma has his own model (pontas?) so i have to dissagree.
I do agree that climbing shoes are a very personal thing & a bit of trial & error is required, but if you after performance go tight, i use the plastic bag trick. Also walking around in them is not good advice for this type of performance shoe, they are not designed to be used like that, stand on some edges, smears etc to test them out. If your after comfort i'd look at another model.


Chris Sharma only wears Evolv because he is sponsored by them. I have never met an Evolv-sponsored climber who, in real life, actually likes
them. It's called marketing. I will give it to Evolv that the rubber is nice, that's it. Though I recognize that it is my opinion.

I suggest walking around in them because it will allow you to feel how the shoe fits. Ideally, your climbing store would have a wall to test them. And you're right about edging and what-not.

You really won't ever know if you like a shoe until you trial and error through a few pairs.
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Postby Clem Snide » Wed Oct 29, 2008 3:08 pm

Before the pair of Evolv shoes, I was climbing in a pair of chunky no-name trainers bought in Birkenhead market years ago.

I put the Evolv shoes on, and I was friggin Spiderman!

So they seem pretty good to me. If I was a real climber I'd maybe think different.
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Postby chriss » Wed Oct 29, 2008 5:26 pm

I wasn't having a dig, i bet Sharma got a good deal moving from five.ten, but as i said he has designed his own shoe & he clearly knows a thing or too about climbing.
If all you wan't to do is easy stuff a pair of shoes big enough to walk around in will be fine, but a mordern half decent, well fitting shoe is not designed to be stood in flat as if it were a trainer. Slip-on or velcro shoes are ideal if comfort is an issue & you want to take them off after each route or problem.
As always this is simply my opion, im not looking for a fight im simply pointing out a few facts to help the less experianced climbers out there.
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Postby Dave Noisy » Fri Oct 31, 2008 5:49 am

chriss - i've got the Anastazi's with laces.
[quote="Frostfire"]DN - what sort of climbing do you do again? I found velcro's were great for bouldering, but my next shoes are going to be lace-up's for some sport and all trad climbing.

Mainly top-roping, with a bit of bouldering. I find they're pretty solid for both, but that's me.

What's the downfall with velcro...?
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Postby chriss » Fri Oct 31, 2008 10:00 am

The only real downside with velcro is that you cant really tighten the toe/lower foot area as well, but honestly if you get a good fit there won't be any issues I promise. Again it all depends on how hard you climb, but you don't want your foot 'rolling' in the shoe, as previously stated slip on or velcro allow you to go for a 'performance' fit without having to mess with laces.
Would you want to cycle in a helmet that kept falling down?
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Postby Frostfire » Fri Oct 31, 2008 1:45 pm

Wow, I've never had any slippage problems with my velcro shoes, they always stay on really snuggly.
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Postby chriss » Fri Oct 31, 2008 4:32 pm

Well mr frostfire you have got a well fitting shoe, just like me. All to often you see people with ill fitting shoes that allow the foot to roll in the shoe thus making edging a problem.
A quick not on fitting I would try to buy a pair later on in the day so your feet have warmed up a bit as they can swell up to half a size bigger.
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Postby Frostfire » Fri Oct 31, 2008 8:41 pm

ms frostfire ;)
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Postby chriss » Sun Nov 02, 2008 7:29 pm

Opps, sorry ms :oops:
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Postby Frostfire » Mon Nov 03, 2008 2:44 pm

No worries, it hardly makes a difference here :mrgreen:
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Postby Dave Noisy » Wed Nov 05, 2008 2:05 am

Cool, thanks, when i try 'em out, i'll see if that's an issue at all...prolly won't be for several months tho.
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Postby remixrobot » Wed Nov 05, 2008 8:41 pm

Rev-I agree that Evolv shoes fit weird. I was simply pointing the company out as a no questions vegan shoe.

I have a beat up pair of the Pontas that I use in the gymnasium sometimes so I dont waste my real shoes (anasazi's) and they are pretty mediocre. I have also climbed in the predators which seem like the toe box is built for a giant duck.

It works for some people for sure....just not me. Or my wife.

I have heard a lot of good things about the five ten gambit shoe recently.
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