Climbing training

[Dave Noisy]

Woot - those look pretty awesome! Too high for me tho, i'd be scared shitless without a rope!!!

Had a fantastic session on Monday - completed the scary 10b overhang (nearly horizontal at the roof), tho i had to hang a few times to rest...long climb! It starts in the cave below as well..hehe..

Then tried the 10b/c that's not as much of an OH, and made it to the 2nd last handhold before slipping! It's a nasty grab, on an angle and nearly a dynamo...but got back on, moved myself in closer to the wall, and landed the hold, and finished the climb - woot!!!

Third cool climb was a 10c that's all tiny hand and foot holds...hung once a foot off the ground, then made it all the way to the top - woot!! That's the first 10c i've completed, yip!

My grip seems to be improved after all my rest, i was super-solid...i like that!

Climbing tomorrow, will try another 10b that's been kicking our asses...lots of dynamo's on it...not my favorite..haha

[Dave Noisy]

Hey, where is everyone? Hands too sore from climbing to type i hope. ;)

Had two more great sessions! My grip has really improved since my weeks off!!!!

On Wed, i finally figured out the 'sandbagger' 10a (more like a 10c!) that we battled and failed on for weeks... Also did another 10b much more smoothly than ever.

Today was 'endurance day', so did mostly laps (flew up a 5.7 5x, i think i was faster each lap, and could have kept going and going...guess it was too easy..!) Also tried another 10a that was previously very difficult to complete and gave us lots of grief.

It's really weird how easy something becomes once you have the right skills!

This 10a has relatively few handholds, and almost all are small or awkward..plus previously, it seemed like several of the maneuvers were nearly dynos, or 'big reaches' at the very least.

Today, it was an absolute cinch. I just stood and reached, and whammo, hit each hold. I actually stopped halfway because i was doubting how *easy* it was, and doubted myself for a move, because i recall how miserable it was to try and do, and i just stopped..!! (This after easing my way up, which was a cinch. I even found an easier way to start the climb, which previously was a dyno too!)

I got back on the wall, and made the move, no prob. The handhold felt a lot more solid than it ever had, and i completed the climb with nary a problem.

It's bizarre how *easy* it's become. I half wonder how it ever could have been a concern...?!!

But, it comes down to grip. My grip now is a LOT better. I can hold those awkward little buggers much more easily, and for longer, and my balance and form are vastly improved as well, which translates in me having to depend much less on what i'm holding onto...

So a bit of a breakthrough this week.

I did a bunch more laps on 5.8's (i think i'll have to do these on 5.9's from now on..) and then went bouldering. Made some progress on one wall that had been tough.

Closed with the cave, did the 'pink' route very smoothly, and another person there did it backwards (ie, climbed 'down'), and i followed suit, pretty cool doing that, i wouldn't have thought i'd be strong enough, but it was almost easier than climbing up..!

Found my next cave route to work on....lots more fun for next week!!

Oh, and spent a record 3.5hrs at the gym too, holy crap..!

Thanks for reading Dave's Climbing Log...haha

[remixrobot]

Way to go dave!! Keep up the work on roofs..dont forget to keep your feet high...

Explored a relatively new bouldering area today...got a couple moderate FA's and started a super tough thin and steep problem..I will bring my camera out there next week and post some photos of the problems...

I have been going through shoes every couple of months..what gives?

[Dave Noisy]

Thanks for the encouragement! Monday i had a pretty sad session...grip was crap, and i couldn't plant my feet..haha..still managed to spend over 3.5hrs at the gym tho. That's my 'endurance athlete' coming out. I gotta stop it tho, i'm not recovering from either climbing or riding enough...!!

As for the shoes...are you scraping them a lot? I guess i've only had mine a couple months, so far so good...

[Dave Noisy]

Latest update to Dave's Climbing Thread. =)

Wed's session was much better, grip was back, felt good.

Completed my first 10d, and attempted a fun 11a, it's just got about 8 big palmers, and you really just gotta muscle and position yourself up it, pretty fun stuff. I didn't get very high, but with my excellent guidance (ha!) i got my climbing partner Kelly to the top. It's much easier to guide someone than do it yourself tho...i need a big mirror on the floor or something..hehe..

Only other item of note was that i did a 10b that's been tough for me a *lot* more smoothly.

We were joking that we figured out how to complete the really tough 10a that we finally did last Fri: the secret is to get good on 10c's first. =P

Tomorrow will be a solo day, as i'll have to leave the gym just as Kelly arrives, so a fun session of bouldering. =)

Okay, that's me, what've the others in here been up to? It's been quiet!

[aardvarkboy]

I'm getting confused with all these American grades! In fact, I don't really get the grades over here either. In the UK we have, I believe, indoor grades and outdoor grades. Since I only presently only climb indoors, I'm only familiar with these grades, which I think go from 3 to 9. Just out of interest, would anyone know what these translate to in USA grades? I can't find any info about this online. I climb 6a every time, 6b most times and 6c hardly ever.

Outdoor grades over here are even more confusing - ''diff', ''v diff'', ''v severe'', etc!

I've been climbing lazily for about a year, but I've only this winter become completely hooked - there's nothing like it (maybe a bike ride!) after a day at work. I climb at a place called the Westway in London, it's good, there are nearly 100 routes, a number of bouldering walls, pump rooms, etc.

I've just got one of those finger boards to screw in above the doorframe in my bedroom for those days when I can't climb. Actually only climb one day a week at the moment, because of the cost getting in and out of London every day. Love it though.

[Dave Noisy]

Heya - welcome to the thread aardvarkboy!

There's a link to a Wiki page (or something like that) earlier on that translates the ratings.. If you can't find it, lemme know and i'll dig it up. (Getting late tonite!)

Didn't climb Monday, gym was closed. Wed had a pretty good session, aced the 'final' 10b route, that we tried, but found the handholds KILLED us. As i was climbing, i kept waiting for them to get tough, but i guess my 'new' grip is solid. They all felt fine, nothing to complain about..hehe..

Started working on a 10d, made some good progress, but then stalled..hehe..

[aardvarkboy]

Cheers, Dave, I've checked out that page but it still confuses me! There is a prety good comparison chart at the wall I go to though, so I'll check that out on Tuesday night.

[fraser]

Am i right in thinking that as a woman i should have a lower centre of gravity and therefore find it easier, or is that just something i was told to encourage me last time.
I'm looking into starting on a climbing wall, is this something i can do with or without other people, or do i need to always have a partner. My work schedule doesn't always fit with other peoples.

[revolushuneyz]

hey everyone! I'm back and full on into action. The trip was amazing, the climbing unbelievable. I posted a some photos in the photo section.

Since the trip, I'm feeling like I've hit new levels. Mostly by way of solidifying my own climbing style. I'm working strength and endurance until the summer so I can be ready for the crags.

Fraser....every route is different. Every climber that their own strengths and weaknesses. So the person was both correct and incorrect. Peeps have a way of assuming that men are naturally better climbers. Bullocks. Just climb, train and enjoy. Your personal strengths will come out to shine eventually.

If you want to climb outside on wall, you'll need a partner. But you could boulder alone. Or talk to other climbers (at a gym or at the crag) and start tagging along with their trips. It depends on your climbing community but I've always found people to climb with.

[Dave Noisy]

Fraser - i second revolushuneyz -- you can go solo and boulder, or top-rope with a partner. Bouldering is a lot more exhausting and tiring tho. ;)

revolushuneyz - great shots! I bet you do feel like you've improved, a trip like that's gotta do *something*!

Climbing here has been pretty good, nothing too exciting to report, working hard on 10c/d and 11a climbs now...getting bits and pieces, and the occasional completion. There's one 11b that's relatively 'easy', but is all *tiny* holds and feet...holy crap...made it about half-way up..haha..

Also went to the 'other' gym in the Victoria area, it's a non-profit in an elementary school. Nice facility, but the climbs SUCK! Awful, poorly designed routes. I really can appreciate the routes at my gym, as i understand it, our setters are some of the best in North America, and i can see it now...

[aardvarkboy]

I can't wait to go climbing tomorrow, I wish I could get to go once a week but travel and cost kind of prevent that. Last week I climbed probably my best ever, mostly 6b and a 6b+, so I'm hoping I can hold or improve on that.

Dave, there are a few of those kind of walls around here, in youth centres, universities or colleges - the routes have clearly all been set up by either toddlers or drunk students! There's not much logic to them and there aren't many routes, so I stick to the Westway in London, which has loads of routes, which are all well set.

I've been getting steadily better that last couple of weeks, notably with finger strength, since I put a finger board up in my bedroom. No excuses now, in fact I'm looking at it now thinking I should be doing some finger pull ups rather than writing this! I did a session earlier, but maybe a few more...

[revolushuneyz]

I've hit new peaks since returning, in ways I don't quite understand. I think dropping weight and generally a renewed commitment have helped. But EVERYONE at the gym has been commenting...suddenly me and my climbing partner have a berzillion new climbing partners, it's awesome.

A crew is heading outdoors this weekend. Pictures should be available.

Dave: did you put any thought to offering to set routes? Or finding good climbers to set? Climbing is a labour of love, most not-for-profits are tapped out of the "sports scene" and don't have the money to pay route setters. But I wouldn't be surprised if you could find climbers willing to set routes voluntarily.

Dave: how's your footwork? You talked about it earlier in the season...have you seen any improvements?

[Dave Noisy]

Heya wallies. =)

I don't think i'd be very good at setting up climbs, plus that gym is nearly an hour out of town, and i won't ever be visiting it on a regular basis (just wanted to check it out..) Hopefully someone out there steps up.. There were one or two good routes...but overall pretty limited.

Footwork - yes! It's improved enough to get that 10b that was troubling me, tho now the 11a's are kicking my butt with the same problem..haha

That's cool you've had such an improvement! Weight can make a difference...try clipping a couple big water bottles to your harness and climb with an extra 5-10lbs...ouch!

Tonites session went pretty well, really starting to get into the 10c's and higher.. Managed to complete one 10c fairly well even! Amazing how much more one has to learn in this sport in order to keep progressing....!!

The coolest thing is going back and doing 10.9's and 10a's that used to be 'really hard' and just flying up them. Even the 10b's are relatively easy now...it's bizarre..

I dunno if anyone caught my 'tip' for better climbing, but at our gym there was a 10a that we just couldn't get...tried and tried, but no luck. So we ignored it, and kept progressing. After doing 10c's, and going back to the 10a, it wasn't nearly so hard at all. So we've learned that by skipping ahead, you can do the other ones much more easily..hehe..

(Just joking, my main climbing partner can barely do one particular 10a, while able to climb up to an 11b...hehe..)

[fraser]

Fraser....every route is different. Every climber that their own strengths and weaknesses. So the person was both correct and incorrect. Peeps have a way of assuming that men are naturally better climbers. Bullocks. Just climb, train and enjoy. Your personal strengths will come out to shine eventually.

Fraser - i second revolushuneyz -- you can go solo and boulder, or top-rope with a partner. Bouldering is a lot more exhausting and tiring tho.

Thanks you two, had first go last night, loved it! Worked on grade 3, (top rope) had a go at a 4b and got half way up and switched. Thats the one to beat next time!
Just using trainers not climbing shoes till i get more experience.
Happy climbing evryone!